Step 4: Time to Breed and Get Ready to Kindle.

Step 4: Time to Breed and Get Ready to Kindle.

To have successful breeding there are a lot of things that need to be in line.

Unreceptive does wont give it up, and the buck will just tire himself out. I choose cooler, quiet days to breed either in the evening or morning.

I try to give my girls a few treats ahead of time throughout the week.

Some carrots or parsley or a few shredded wheat squares. Content and stress-free does seem to be more receptive.

For the longest time I could not get my does to accept being mounted. It takes patience.

I wont be giving a comprehensive tale of breeding here, I just want to point out the basics and what should be apparent during and after.

Always take the doe to the buck. Never switch it because the does become aggressive and can really inflict some damage.

I remove anything that could get in the way or injure the rabbits when breeding. They tend to run around so any metal feeders or protruding bits can poke out an eye.

When transporting the does I wear long sleeves or work gloves. I reach in and grab the does by the back of the neck much like you would do with a cat.

I take them from the cage and place them against my chest supporting their feet with my arm. This is so they don't kick around and flail. At least if cuts down the incidents of the does going wild.

I received many scratches and cuts from improper handling. Sometimes they get scared and they are going to act out, but cut down those times by keeping them happy and calm.

Once the doe is in the buck's cage stay to watch to make sure no one gets hurt.

They might run or sniff each other, eventually the buck will get around back and begin to mount. Something I didn't learn until recently is about the lift.

To have a better chance of a success the doe will lay out a bit int he cage while the buck is thrusting and lift her hind legs. Its very subtle and usually the buck will finish a few second after this happens.

The sign the the buck is finished is that his whole body convulses and rolls up like a pill bug then he falls over. It takes a few seconds to get the whole business finished. I do this twice. Its just what seems to get me the right little size.

However the doe can be removed after the first time, and certainly after the second so they don't begin to fight. They may stamp their feet and shake their heads but unless there's blood its all good.

I sometimes check to see if the doe has sperm on her genitals or on her tail if I suspect the buck hasn't met his mark, but most of the time I don't worry; they know what they're doing.

Breed one doe a day until they are all bred then mark it either on a calender or a index card attached to the cage. This step is very important it lets you know when to breed again 15 days later, and when to put the nest box in.

Nest boxes are made of different material. I use wooden boxes that are made with plywood and some wire for the bottom.

Good clean boxes are important to keeping the kits healthy and the doe from getting an infection in her teats. After each use clean them with a mild cleaner or diluted solvent them let them dry completely in the sun if possible.

I store my in a closet until I need them again. Once the box is in the cage I add shredded paper and straw. I once used hay to line the box but the doe ate most of it before she gave birth. The does will move everything around to the way she wants creating a burrow and will pull out belly fur to add to the straw and paper.

I place my boxes in a the 30 day mark. I have read to put it in at 31 days or only when you see the does taking their hay that they eat and making a little nest. I've had does give birth on day 30 so its better to be safe than to lose 8 kits.

If its a cold season I add quite a lot of paper to the bottom, since its wire mesh, to minimize

source: instructables.com